Alyogyne hakifolia (Mellissa Anne) - <3m (H), <3m (W). A versatile shrub with fine, bright green leaves and producing medium/large lilac hibiscus-like flowers throughout the warmer months. Responds very well to keeping pruned to shape.
Callistemon 'Mauve Mist' - 2.5m (H), 2.5m (W). An upright evergreen shrub with beautiful pink/mauve bird attracting bottlebrush flowers from late spring to early summer. The new foliage also has a soft pink tinge.
Convolvulus cneorum (Silver Bush) - 40cm (H), 60cm (W). A low-growing shrub with soft silver/grey foliage and masses of white trumpet-like flowers through spring and summer.
Darwinia citriodora (Lemon Scented Darwinia) - 20cm (H), 80cm (W). A compact groundcover with dense small silver/green lemon scented foliage. Masses of bright orange, bird attracting flowers from winter through to summer.
Grevillea lanigera 'Mt Tamboritha' - 30cm (H), 1.5m (W). Dense, soft green foliage with bunches of small pinky/white bird attracting flowers. Like most grevillea species, this one produces flowers prolifically throughout most of the year.
Hibiscus tiliaceus (Cottonwood Hibiscus) - <8m (H), <4m (W). A large, fast growing shrub with large burgundy/green leaves and large showy yellow flowers. Despite their size, this hibiscus responds really well to pruning (I've even seen some used as topiaries...very large topiaries!).
Leptospermum Varieties (Tea Trees) - There are a huge number of varieties, ranging size from 50cm shrubs to 2m shrubs. All have small dense foliage and massed clusters of brightly coloured flowers (white, pink, red or purple).
Lomandra longifolia 'Tanika' - 50cm (H), 80cm (W). A beautiful, extremely hardy clumping plant, ideal for borders or around ponds and water features with long, slender arching light green leaves and short yellow flower spikes in spring.
Prunus cerasifera nigra (Ornamental Flowering Plum) - 5m (H), 3m (W). A beautiful ornamental deciduous tree with a compact, upright growth habit. In spring, their otherwise bare limbs are covered in small pink flowers, soon to be replaced by dark red/black glossy foliage.
Vibernum tinus - <3m (H), <3m (W). A perfect hedging/screening shrub, as it responds well to heavy pruning, with dense dark green foliage and clusters of perfumed white flowers through spring.
Did you know that of all the fertiliser sold in Australia, ~ 1/3 is sold in Perth?
Did you also know...recent studies have found that, on average, 5 times as much fertiliser is applied to lawns than is actually needed?
Overwatering is one of the most common causes of nutrient deficiency! Approximately 60% of lawn fertiliser is leached past the root-zone and ends up in our ground water and wetlands. In fact, many of the algal blooms that we hear of so often can be directly associated with our suburban gardening habits.
Unfortunately, in our quest for a healthy looking green lawn and garden, we mistakenly apply the theory that 'if some is good, then more must be better!'
Fertilisers should only be applied to lawns and gardens in early Spring and Autumn (this is also the perfect time to apply granulised soil wetting agents). Organic fertilisers (e.g. Blood and Bone) should be sparingly applied around the drip line of plants, lightly incorporated into the soil (your plant's feeder roots are only in the first 2 - 3 inches of soil) and watered in. If you feel you must fertilise your lawn, try to find a fertiliser with low phosphorus levels (i.e. N:P:K ratio of ~ 10:1:6) and please follow the directions - generally 1 tablespoon full is enough to cover 1sqm. A list of the levels of phosphorus contained in many of the chemical fertilisers readily sold in Perth can be found at the SERCUL website.
And one quick clarification...please don't mistake the term 'organic' to mean 'manure'. Manures are very high in phosphorus and will often turn your soils alkaline and water repellent. If you are going to use them, please do so sparingly and dig them through your garden - don't use it as a mulch!
How do you keep your new timber deck looking as good as new? Regular maintenance!
An exposed deck has to stand up to all sorts of punishment - too much moisture, drying out, ultraviolet light, mould, mildew, bacteria, spills, scrapes and foot traffic. Following a regular maintenance routine will not only enhance the appearance of your deck but also dramatically extend its life.
Sweeping your deck every week or two will help reduce the build up of dirt and grime and will also help to prevent mould and mildew. Mopping your deck once a month with a wood soap solution will clean up spills and stains as well as enhance the luster of the oil. As with your carpets, it's important to clean spills quickly to prevent staining.
Oiling twice yearly is the real key to a great looking deck. Spring and autumn are the best times to do it, so your deck is best able to deal with the extremes of summer and winter. But it's not just a matter of slapping on another coat of oil - good preparation is the key to a good result!
The first step is to clean the deck thoroughly. You'll need a bucket of warm water, wood soap (or bleach/chlorine-free sugar soap), a stiff broom and plenty of elbow grease. If you've got some particularly stubborn stains you can try lightly sanding the area with a medium grade sandpaper or applying a diluted oxalic acid solution to the area (often marketed as a 'Spa and Deck Cleaner').
If your deck is prone to developing mould (particularly common in very shady areas), using a deck clean solution that contains mold and mildew inhibitors is a good idea. These can be found in the deck oil section of your local paint and hardware store.
You'll need to wait until your deck is completely dry before applying any oil or stain - 24hrs is a good rule of thumb.
Now you face a dilemma...should you use an oil or a stain?
Traditionally, a stain is used to either change the colour of a deck or to bring some life back to a greying deck. We recommend that an oil with a slight stain is used on all decks. The school of thought behind this is that the stain acts as a type of sunscreen for the timber and will offer better protection against the harsh summer sun. It's worth noting that if your deck is a dark timber you should use a light coloured stain.
There are plenty of different brands on the market (some that also contain mould and mildew inhibitors) including environmentally and family friendly plant based oils and stains such as Intergrain Natural Timber Oil, Livos, Ecowood and Bio Natural.
The oil/stain is best applied along the length of the decking boards (usually 4 boards at a time) using a woollen application pad on a long handle (found on the shelves next to the deck oils and cleaners). It's best to apply 2 thin coats rather than adopt the 'more is better' rule. Allow each coat to penetrate (each product is different, so please follow the directions on the tin) before wiping off any excess (we use a clean applicator pad for this). Following the manufacturer's recomended penetration time, apply a second thin coat and wipe off any excess as before.
After you've packed everything away, it's time for the final, and arguably most important, step in the process...make yourself a drink, sit down and enjoy your deck!
We're often asked, "what's the best fertiliser to use" or, "what type of soil should I be using?" The answer to both those questions is the same...Compost!
You can buy "compost" from many different suppliers and in many different forms. But not all "composts" are the same. A lot of "composts" on the market will contain a mixture of blended manures to add body to peat or topsoil. We recommend and use, what we call, a "true compost" - only decomposed plant and vegetable matter.
But why not save yourself some money and help save the environment by making your own? By far the easiest way is to buy yourself a compost tumbler or two (these range in price from $100 up to $400), pop it in a sunny corner of the garden and fill it with vegetable scraps, tea bags, coffee grounds, garden prunings and lawn clippings. And there's no need to worry about it smelling. Composting material will only smell if it is too wet and/or it hasn't been aerated.
You can apply your compost to all of your plants - even natives - and, if it's fine enough, can be lightly dusted/swept onto your lawn in place of a chemical fertiliser.
If you've got a veggie garden, fruit trees or some nutrient hungry exotic plants you might want to also consider a worm farm. Here you've got a triple benefit - reduction in what is sent to landfill and the double output - worm "tea" and worm castings. Both are extremely potent and need be "shandied down" at a 1:10 ratio of "tea" : water and castings : soil. Be warned though, your worm's outputs will be too much for most of your natives to handle!
You'll be amazed at the difference it makes to your garden!
